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Pahoa is a tiny town favored by crystal-lovers, dreamers, and shall-we-say "alternative" farmers. One man, when we asked him what he grows, hesitated, and told us "small plants and...ah...tomatoes." Instead of being a tourist, you can check out local culture at the Pahoa Farmer's market on Sunday mornings. When we went it was pouring buckets of rain, as it usually does on the Hilo side of the island. There were stalls displaying crystals, beaded jewelry, unusual knickknacks, and my favorite: exotic tropical fruits. We bought a pound of lychees for only two dollars, and then drove along in glee peeling and delighting in each one.
We were told that many locals from the market head out to Kahena Black Sand Beach in the afternoon on Sunday and play in a drum circle that hypnotically continues until dark.
While in the area, check out the lush forest and giant monkeypod trees at Lava Tree State Park.
This is an interactive map, you can zoom and move it.