Hilo town and farmer's market

Hilo has an unattractive downtown. Although it is on the bay, it's a more industrial ugly part of the bay. There's an occasional historic building that looks nice, but mostly the area is rundown. Many of the buildings, the movie theater, and the museums such as the Pacific Tsunami Museum and the Mokupapapa Discovery Center are musty. There are some good souvenir stores though, with Hawaiian items.

The farmer's market, which has its biggest selection of goods on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, is a decent place to visit. The fruit area is too cramped and crowded, under some tents. The jewelry and clothing area is nicer, and you can find some handmade items. Stop for a shave ice at Kula Shave Ice, with picnic tables outside- the lime and coconut flavors are not as sweet.
A few steps west of the farmer's market are some restaurants and stores, such as Hulakai Surf Shop and a good health food grocery store called Abundant Life. There are a few souvenir shops, plus a well-loved bakery on Fumeaux Lane called Moonstruck Patisserie (I haven't tried it yet).
On a very rundown street is a popular, ultra-healthy, colorful cafe called Booch Bar (photo above), open 8am-8pm, but there are many homeless people around. Two Ladies Kitchen is an overhyped mochi place that limits its hours in order to create some mystique. You wait an hour in line on a fumey street, only to eat mochi that is mushy and uninteresting, just like mochi at Longs Drugs or Foodland. It was the downfall of one of our vacation mornings. Starbucks has a huge, attractive interior with big windows looking out on the glorious palms of the bayfront parks. On the other side, the windows look out on regal Italian cypress trees and the belltower of Honpa Hongwanji Mission. There are many homeless people inside Starbucks. Popover Pastry did not have good food. Some reliably good takeout places in Hilo are: Sakura Sushi (shrimp tempura roll), Jalisco Tacos Food Truck (closed Sunday, try the carne asada burrito), Kamana Kitchen Indian (closed Tuesday, try the lamb vindaloo). 
Hilo town is rundown, and has many homeless people. I prefer to have breakfast at Big Island Coffee Roasters, near Reeds Bay, which is in a modern, attractive building with blue tiles inside. They have excellent Popovers, which are eggy inside and not sweet. 
Saint Joseph Catholic Church up a hilly street in downtown is worth driving to (this is not a nice area so don't bother walking). It's very pretty and light inside with bright stained glass, and a lovely breeze. Outside, the front facade is gorgeous, with pink details, a bell tower, and vintage lampposts. 
Although the downtown is not the best, Hilo is a good destination because it is near some gorgeous spots. If you stay at one of the hotels on Banyan Drive, you will be walking distance to lovely Coconut Island, Lilioukalani Gardens, Hilo Bay Cafe, and the cafes at Grand Naniloa Hotel. Wonderful views of the bay are everywhere, as well as rows of huge banyan trees.
Although Hilo is not known for its beaches, it actually has some fantastic natural seaside springs where you enter the ocean from rocky spots or tiny sandy spots. The water is cold because of the springs and you often see turtles and baby turtles feeding on the green plants on the rocks. There isn't much coral or fish, so snorkeling is mostly for seeing turtles. Some of the nice swimming spots are: Reeds Bay Park, Coconut Island, Onekahakaha Beach (calm and great for kids), Carlsmith Beach (the best), and Richardson Beach, which is a small black sand beach! These are all a short eight minute drive east from the hotels on Banyan Drive. Sometimes Hilo has big storms that make the water brown and filled with debris, so it can be a hit or miss place for a swimming vacation. It also has rainy, and sometimes gloomy, weather. That is why Kona is more popular with tourists. November is the worst month in Hilo as far as constant rain.
In the hills above the town are two lovely waterfalls that are very easy to see since they are each right by a parking lot. Check out Rainbow Falls and Boiling Pots. Kaumana Caves Lava Tube is a fascinating place to visit. There is also a cute park where kids love to run to the top of a hill: University Heights Park. Nearby, check out the UH Hilo Botanical Palm Garden, and a short walk from it, the UH Hilo Botanical Bromeliad and Cycad Garden. 
Definitely visit Wailoa River State Park, for a strong, cool breeze over the river, huge monkeypod trees, and gorgeous pedestrian bridges where you can stand above the clear water. 
Further out from Hilo, a twelve minute drive on Highway 11, is Pana'ewa Rainforest Zoo and Gardens, which is really beautiful! There are tropical flowers and bright trees, plus cute poison dart frogs and other animals. The playground for kids is wonderful. While out this way, check out Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Farm, which is free to visit, along a beautiful farm road lined with Norfolk pines and rows and rows of macadamia nut trees. 
It's also amazing to drive up the Hamakua Coast from Hilo, stopping at some incredible sights. 
There is a surfing beach six minutes from downtown Hilo called Honoli'i Beach. Stand at the top and enjoy the wonderful views of the headland, sets rolling in, and tropical vegetation.
Hilo is lush and incredibly green, while Kona is dry with lots of lava fields but some lush landscaping in the tourist and residential areas.
There are four areas of the Big Island- Kona, Kohala Coast, Hilo, and Waimea- and good reasons to go to each. Sunny weather, a nice main strip with oceanfront cafes, and great snorkeling are the reasons to go to Kona town. Perfect beaches and fancy resorts are the reasons to go to the Kohala Coast. Unique architecture and the greenest countryside are the reasons to visit Waimea town. And lush, gorgeous scenery, waterfalls, and lovely mistings of rain are the reasons to go to Hilo and the Hamakua Coast. It's fun to stay in both towns (Hilo and Kona) for a few days each, and also check out Waimea town on the drive across.

Directions

The farmer's market is located at 5 Mamo Street. There is plenty of parking in the lots on Kamehameha Ave.
Moonstruck Patisserie, 16 Furneaux Ln, Hilo, HI 96720. Closed Sunday-Tuesday. I haven't tried this one yet. 
Booch Bar, 110 Keawe St, Hilo, HI 96720. Open daily 8-8. There are homeless people around.

Click on map for interactive view