Downtown Monterey

Downtown Monterey has a youthful vibe, and gorgeous historical buildings and trees. Alvarado Rd is the main strip and has some gorgeous historical buildings with 19th century details. Golden State Theater is a delightful honeycomb-colored historical building. There are restaurants and coffee shops: Starbucks has a great patio above the street, and Manasiri's Crepes and Sandwiches (daily 8-8) has large windows looking out on the street.

Two blocks east of Alvarado St is a bakery with lots of seating and a colorful mural of the Seine River in Paris called Paris Bakery Cafe (daily 6:30-2) - try their pain au chocolat or soups (their ham baguette is not as good). From there, walk to Colton Hall, which has a lovely mother and baby bears sculpture on a huge lawn, and a wonderful garden with the Moon Tree, a redwood that traveled to the moon and back as a seed on Apollo 14. 
Parker-Lusseau Pastries is the top choice in Monterey for me (closed Sun, and mid-Jan for two weeks. Mon-Sat 7:30-3 or 4). They have delicious chocolate croissants brought fresh in the morning, and you can sit outside on their cute patio in a historic building adobe. The owner is from Nantes, France. Walk from there to San Carlos Cathedral, which is pristine inside, with folk-style painted patterns, a sky-blue altar, and beautiful sculptures. 
At the northern end of Alvarado Rd you come to a pedestrian-only, touristy section with bountiful flower baskets and wispy trees. Here you can sit on a bench in the shade and enjoy a homemade crepe from Crepes of Brittany (daily 7-2:30 or 4). Continue on and you come to Custom House Plaza, a large pedestrian-only area with a fountain in the middle. Here you are surrounded by historical buildings, including the Monterey History and Art Museum (Thurs-Mon 12-4) with the Dali collection. Because this area is lacking in shade, it's nicer in winter than in summer. Take a left and you will find a bunch of little courtyards hidden away (Olivier St is one of these). They are blessed with Spanish fountains, flowering vines, and historical buildings. One building even has old cobblestones in front of it made of whale bone. Walk toward the ocean and you will come to Fisherman's Wharf and a marvelous view of the myriad blue-green hues the ocean takes in Monterey. If it's too cold and you want to be indoors, take your kids to the excellent children's museum called Monterey County Youth Museum (Wed-Sun 10-5), just two blocks east of Alvarado St. Walk to the east of the wharf and you come to lovely Del Monte Beach, a wide beach with the softest sand.
There is a lot of French influence in Monterey. You see French names on buildings and street signs, and French bakeries. The first French consulate on the west coast of the USA was in Monterey, and throughout its history served gold seekers, bakers, merchants, livestock farmers, and trappers.

Directions

Downtown Monterey's main strip is on the northern end of Alvarado St. You can park along Alvarado St. Or you can park at Fisherman's Wharf and walk through Custom House Plaza to Alvarado St. In the map it appears as though Lighthouse Ave goes through this area, but it is an underground tunnel.
Crepes of Brittany, 211 Alvarado St, Monterey CA 93940, call (831) 649-1930.
Rosine's Restaurant, 434 Alvarado St.
Manasiri's Crepes and Sandwiches, 321 Alvarado St.
Starbucks, 316 Alvarado St.
Paris Bakery Cafe, 271 Bonafacio Pl, call (831) 646-1620.
Parker-Lusseau Pastries, 539 Hartnell Street (closed Sunday). 
Monterey County Youth Museum, 425 Washington St, call (831) 649-6444. Open Wed-Sun 10-5. Closed Monday and Tuesday. Admission is $10. Children under 2 years old enter for free.

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