Versailles Gardens

As you walk the huge expanse of the Versailles Gardens, you see a surprise around every turn. Built into a thick forest, the gardens have separate partitions with many treasures to discover. I have been there three times and still haven't seen everything! I recommend you come first thing in the morning before the crowds arrive. Because the gardens are so huge though, you will have space around you at any time of day, and you can recover from the crowds of Paris. 

When I first saw the gardens at Versailles Palace in 1994, I could see a grove through a fence and I longed to explore it. White sculptures were hidden in little alcoves. But it was forbidden to enter, and so my longing went unfulfilled. Recently, in 2024, I was able to walk into the grove, called Grove of Apollo's Baths (Bosquet des Bains d'Apollon), because the groves at Versailles Gardens have been restored! You can walk among them on Musical Gardens and Musical Fountains days, April to October (there are many days but they are very specific so check the website at the ticket purchase link). Enter at one of the garden gates, such as the Queen's Gate (Grille de la Reine) or main palace gate (Honour Gate) and explore all the groves (bosquets) and reflecting pools with bronze sculptures (bassins). Bosquet du Theatre d'Eau has a fountain that looks modern, with clear gold glass balls. Bassin du Miroir, and Bassin de Neptune also have fountains that go every fifteen minutes. 
Check out the Orangerie, with its adorable citrus trees, kept out of the cold winter air in a sheltered area on the south side of the palace. There is a tall staircase you can climb to see the Orangerie and Versailles Gardens from above, plus a shimmering lake across the street called Piece d'Eau des Suisses.
Perfect hedges and long rows of sculptures, often of Greek goddesses or other classical themes, add to the endless beauty of the gardens. Topiaries of all shapes add whimsy. Little rose gardens or flower beds surprise you here and there. Grand pools with sculptures along each edge impress you, and swans glide by. There are allees, amazing trees in rows, everywhere. 
I recommend stopping for a nutella crepe at Buvette du Dauphin cafe (open 10-6), a counter-service snack bar, which looks like a little cabin in the woods. It's lovely to sit in their outdoor seating. You can also get takeaway from La Flotille or La Petit Venise, near the canal. 
There are free restrooms at Buvette du Dauphin Cafe or North Parterre (near the palace). Further away, you will find restrooms at La Petite Venise, the Grand Canal, and the trianons (no need for an entrance ticket in order to use them). 
As you walk further from the palace, you come to the Grand Canal and Park of Versailles, an area that is free to enter even in summer. By now you have walked so far you hardly have the energy to walk more! You can rent bikes ($10/ hour or $23/8 hours) near La Flotille cafe, or rent rowboats and take a turn around the lake, for $20 an hour (open 11am-6pm). This area looks very pretty- La Flotille Cafe has lovely seating on the water- but we were too tired to explore it. 
You must walk A LOT to see the gardens. Just the walk to the gate and into the gardens from the gate is very long. Wear good shoes, and bring a stroller for your child! There is plenty of shade in the wooded areas, but bring a hat for the open areas. I don't recommend that you take the Petit Train, or trolley, because it is bumpy and only takes you through the forest, not past the pretty areas. You have to be quite fit to see the gardens, and the only option for those with health problems that works well is the golf cart rental near the palace, I would think. 
Another garden area- with an abundance of wispy flowers- is the Queen's Hamlet, but it only opens at noon. You need another day to explore it, and the trianons. This is the area where Marie Antionette and her friends dressed up as shepherdesses in little cottages or hamlets. There are animals to see too.
To see the Versailles Palace, which is only possible by reservation online, I recommend coming during the last time slot of the day, when the crowds have gone home for the day, around 5pm. This works if you have a hotel room you can rest in during the afternoon, or if you have a long lazy lunch reserved at one of the restaurants near the canal.
Palace of Versailles is closed on Mondays, but the garden (not the groves) and park are open. 
The ticket situation is confusing. On the day you want to see the palace, hamlet, and gardens, buy the Passport ticket online, for around $32. You will choose a time slot for the palace (this is the only area that requires a time slot), and you can see the hamlet anytime after noon, and the gardens anytime starting at 8am. To see just the gardens, buy a Musical Gardens or Musical Fountains ticket, for around $11 at one of the gates or online, or go in for free before 9am, or during winter (Nov to March). Kids under 18, European kids under 26, disabled people and their caregiver, enter the palace for free. The park area, by the Grand Canal, is always free to enter. If you leave, you have to enter through a different gate next time. We entered through the Queen's Gate to see the gardens in the morning, and then through the main gate to see the palace at 5pm. 
It takes a whole day or two to see the gardens, so it is nice to stay in Versailles town. It is a charming town, and can be a good choice if you've just arrived from an exhausting flight. It is far more doable than Paris. The area around Church of Saint Anthony of Padua is lovely. A wonderful bakery is Les Freres du Pain (closed Mon and Tues)- we had the best chocolate croissants of our trip there, and also loved the chocolate viennoise (like soft bread rolls with chocolate baked into it).

Directions

Versailles Gardens is a 45 minute metro ride from Paris, on RER C line. There is also a large parking lot outside the main gate. You can also stay in Versailles town and see the gardens at a leisurely pace. 
The gardens are open from early morning until evening, depending on the time of year.
Palace of Versailles is closed on Mondays, but the garden (not the groves) and park are still open (check to be sure). 
The ticket situation is confusing. On the day you want to see the palace, hamlet, and gardens, buy the Passport ticket online, for around $32. You will choose a time slot for the palace (this is the only area that requires a time slot), and you can see the Queen's hamlet anytime after noon, and the gardens anytime starting at 8am. To see just the gardens, buy a Musical Gardens or Musical Fountains ticket, for around $11 at one of the gates or online, or go in for free before 9am, during winter (Nov to March), or on Mondays- on free days, the groves are closed. Kids under 18, European kids under 26, disabled people and their cafegiver, enter the palace for free. The park area, by the Grand Canal, is always free to enter. If you leave, you have to enter through a different gate next time. We entered through the Queen's Gate to see the gardens in the morning, and then through the main Honour Gate to see the palace at 5pm, the last time slot (to avoid crowds).

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